Updated 2/08/2023
“We’ll have to skip the James Irvine Trail this time,” I sighed. “The one to Fern Canyon.”
Bryan nodded, squinting through the windshield to better navigate the thick lens of smoke obscuring the road.
“Just get to I-5, and we’ll go north.”
It was September of 2017. Wildfires were burning in a patchwork all over the west coast, with smoke keeping most indoors. And of course, this was the week of our annual hiking trip. We’d soon scrapped our carefully planned itinerary and headed for wherever wasn’t on fire.
The memory of that first attempt to hike the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon was fresh on our minds as we pulled into the trailhead four years later. As the wooden sign came into view, marking the James Irvine Trail, I felt a shiver of excitement. This time, it was a go.
We had long heard this is the best hike in the redwoods, and we were not disappointed. In today’s post, I’ll share the highlights of the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon and everything you need to know to do the hike yourself. Stay tuned for a video preview of Fern Canyon later in this post!
James Irvine Trail Overview
The James Irvine Trail meanders through a forest of mammoth redwood trees. Many of the redwoods are so huge it would take a good 30 seconds to walk around one tree. The forest floor teems with ferns, fabulous fungi, and the occasional evergreen huckleberry. Yet despite the grandeur of the forest, we saw few other hikers for most of the trail. It’s nothing like visiting Muir Woods or redwood groves near the city. It feels like going back in time.
That’s because the headliner destination in this part of Redwood National and State Parks is not the James Irvine Trail itself, but the trail’s destination, Fern Canyon. As the James Irvine Trail approaches Fern Canyon, the number of other hikers increases, and you’ll likely find the canyon itself on the busy side. That’s because visitors who want to avoid the hike can drive to a parking lot right next to Fern Canyon. However, I wouldn’t recommend it (more on that later in the post!).
But Fern Canyon is absolutely worth a visit. A stream cuts through Fern Canyon, and hikers walk right in the stream, enclosed by the fern-covered canyon walls. If it looks like a scene out of Jurassic Park…that’s because it is. Part of Jurassic Park 2 (the Lost World) was filmed at Fern Canyon.
Although it’s not a difficult hike, I’d recommend wearing boots or other footwear that you’re comfortable getting wet. Since there isn’t an actual trail through Fern Canyon itself, you’ll end up hopping over logs and rocks and will likely get wet feet.
At the end of Fern Canyon, a short additional walk leads to the ocean at Gold Bluffs Beach. The James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon and then on to Gold Bluffs Beach and back is about 11 miles. The AllTrails trail guide lists the hike as 10.4 miles, but that curiously excludes walking through Fern Canyon itself and out to the beach at the end.
While it’s a long distance, the trail isn’t steep or difficult. And with giant redwoods, Fern Canyon, and the ocean all in one hike, it’s definitely a day to remember.
When we visited in October, the evergreen huckleberries were ripe and delicious along the trail. For more on evergreen huckleberries and other edible berries of the west coast, check out our edible wild berries blog post.
Where is the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon?
The James Irvine Trail and Fern Canyon are in Redwood National and State Parks in northern California. More specifically, they’re in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. I’ll explain what’s going on with the overlapping national and state park designations later in this post, since it can be a little confusing.
The closest visitor center is the Prairie Creek Visitor Center. It’s a long way from a major city (about 6 hours’ drive from San Francisco or 6 ½ hours’ drive from Portland). While it may be remote, a visit to this beautiful and unique corner of the world is not to be missed.
There’s no fee to park at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center, or to visit most of Redwood National and State Parks. However, if you skip the hike and drive to Fern Canyon (more on that below), you’ll have to pay a $12 day-use fee or have an accepted pass (America the Beautiful, California State Park Annual Pass, Poppy Pass, or a reservation at a park campground). Details are on the Redwood Parks Conservancy website.
Can you Drive to Fern Canyon?
Yes, it’s possible to see Fern Canyon itself while avoiding the long hike on the James Irvine Trail, but I wouldn’t advise it. Here’s why:
#1. You’ll miss the giant redwoods.
The James Irvine Trail isn’t just a route to Fern Canyon. It’s an incredible hike in its own right, passing through an ancient forest of towering redwood trees. If you catch it on a sunny day, the sun beams filtering through the mammoth trees make the whole place glow.
#2. You’ll need a Fern Canyon permit (probably).
As of 2022, parking near Fern Canyon requires permits in the peak summer season (May 1 – September 30) to reduce crowds. Permits are not needed for hikers who get to Fern Canyon via the James Irvine Trail instead of driving, though!
For full permit details, check out the National Park Service website, or search for permit availability here.
The permit itself is free, but you’ll need to pay a $12 day-use fee or have an accepted pass, per my earlier note.
If you visit in the off-season, you can drive to Fern Canyon without a permit. We visited in early October, and we got lucky with a beautiful sunny day. We still hiked in on the James Irvine Trail to see the redwoods, though!
#3. You might get stuck at a stream crossing on the dirt road.
Per the Redwood Parks Conservancy, driving to the parking area near Fern Canyon involves traveling on a dirt road for around half an hour. Very large vehicles (like RVs and trailers) aren’t allowed, and 4-wheel drive vehicles are recommended because there are a couple of tricky stream crossings.
If you hike the James Irvine Trail instead, the trailhead is at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center. The visitor center is easy to access for all vehicle types.
How Long Does it Take to Hike the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon?
Because the trail doesn’t have much climb, we expected to reach Fern Canyon on the James Irvine Trail in less than a couple hours. However, the views along the way were so impressive that we stopped constantly to enjoy the scenery. Based on the timestamps on our photos, we started at 9:45 am and got back to the trailhead at 3:20 pm, for a total of 5 ½ hours.
Are Dogs Allowed on the James Irvine Trail or at Fern Canyon?
No, dogs aren’t allowed on any hiking trails at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, per the park website.
Where to Stay Near the James Irvine Trail: Elk Prairie Campground
There are several campgrounds in Redwood National and State Parks, but we chose Elk Prairie Campground because it’s right around the corner from the trailhead, which is at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center. Since this campground is so close to the trailhead, we were able to get a fairly early start on the hike and avoid any parking challenges.
The campground is popular, so I’d recommend making reservations in advance.
Why is it Called Redwood National and State Parks?
Fern Canyon and the James Irvine Trail are in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, but you’ll also see references to other redwood state parks nearby, as well as Redwood National Park. In fact, the area is generally referred to as “Redwood National and State Parks.” Here’s a quick rundown of the history and what’s going on with all those parks.
The National Park Service has put together a fascinating history of the redwood region, including Native American history and later conflict and logging by Euro-American settlers. While the redwood forests seem extensive to me as a visitor, it was sobering to learn that 95% of the old-growth redwood forests have been logged and are gone.
While the loss of so much old-growth redwood forest is staggering, the forests that do remain are here because of work that began over a hundred years ago to protect the redwoods. In 1918, a key nonprofit was founded, the Save the Redwoods League. The Save the Redwoods League partnered with the State of California and focused on buying redwood forest to protect it from logging. This land became Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (where Fern Canyon and the James Irvine Trail are located), and also Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, and Humboldt Redwoods State Park.
In the 1960s, popular movements arose to protect more redwoods in the region through the founding of a national park. These efforts were ultimately successful. They added more acres of redwood forest to the protected zone and brought the national park service into the mix. The national park system and the California state park system now collaborate to manage the four original state parks. The area is collectively referred to as Redwood National and State Parks for this reason.
Video of the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon
To experience the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon virtually, check out our video below!
Other Adventures in the Pacific Northwest
Thanks for joining us on the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon! For more adventure ideas in the Pacific Northwest, check out our PNW Trip Planner. You can find adventures near you and filter by season and difficulty level. There are weird and wonderful things to explore any time of year. The trip planner links to blog posts to help you plan your next adventure.
Happy exploring!